The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae (‘Guapo’), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheological behaviour, previously studied, were considered. Flowing characteristics, particle size distribution, water absorption capacity at 25°C (ambient temperature), and toxicity were assessed. Results showed that Myrosma starch complies with the USP and British pharmacopoeia, and presented a normal particle distribution. More than 25% of the granules had a diameter >23.81 μm and the average size of particles was >16.92 μm. When compared with talc, ‘guapo’ starch presented higher values for water absorption capacity and flowing characteristics. Starch showed negative local toxicity, and low acute toxicity in vitro on two human dermis cell types. The amylographic study and the difractograms suggest the possible use of this starch in heterogeneous systems. A facial transparent powder was formulated and some of its properties were determined by sensorial analysis. It was concluded that the M. cannifolia starch presents certain characteristics useful in the formulation of new powdered products.

Résumé

L'objectif de cette recherche a été d'evaluer la possibilité d'employer l'amidon provenant de la Myrosma cannifolia L.F. Maranthaceae (Guapo), comme une matierè première dans la fabrication ou formulation des systèmes hétérogènes ou des cosmétiques en poudre et des formules de produits pharmaceutiques. Les caractéristiques physiques et chimiques de l'amidon, les propiétés physico-chemique et le comportement rheologique, antérieurementétudiés onété considérées. Les caractéristiques de fluidité, la distribution de la grandeur de particules, la capacité d'absorption de l'eau a 25°C (température ordinaire) ainsi que sa toxicité aiguëà court terme ontété determinées. Les résultats montrent que l'amidon de Myrosma remplit les exigences réglementaires de la USP et la Pharmacoeia Britannique et présente une distribution normale des particules. Plus du 25% des granules ont un diamètre plus grand que 23,81 μm et la taille moyenne des particules est plus haute que 16,92 μm. En comparaison avec le talc, l'amidon de ‘‘guapo’’ présente une meilleure capacité d'absorption de l'eau et des meilleures caractéristiques de flux. L'amidon montre aussi une très basse toxicité locale, voir imperceptible chez le lapin, ainsi que une très basse toxicité aiguëin vitro sur deux types cellulaires humains d'origine dermique. L'etude amylographique et les difractogrammes permettent d'envisager l'utilisation de cet amidon dans des systèmes hétérogènes. Une poudre faciale transparente aété formulée et quelques propiétés ont puêtre constatées par analyse sensorielle. On a conclu que l'amidon de M. cannifolia présente quelques caractéristiques très utiles pour la formulation de nouveaux produits en poudre.

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Volume27, Issue2

April 2005

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‘Guapo’ (Myrosma cannifolia) starch: a natural product with potential use in cosmetic formulations¹

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‘Guapo’ (Myrosma cannifolia) starch: a natural product with potential use in cosmetic formulations¹